You should drywall your ceiling first, and then focus on the walls’ top sections. The order in which you install drywall can affect its durability, longevity, and esthetic appeal, and installing drywall on the ceiling before the walls typically always yields the best results.

You can save money by installing drywall yourself. You’ll achieve the best results if you follow the right procedure to install drywall. This article explains why drywall panels should go to the ceiling first.

The Basics

Drywall is a favorite wall and ceiling covering material for many homeowners. The material is smooth, fun, and easy to install if you follow the proper sequence.

Apart from being durable, drywall is also affordable. This makes it perfect if you want to be able to renovate your home easily and without fuss in the future. The correct order of installing drywall in rooms is to cover the ceiling first and then the walls.

Nothing stops you from putting drywall on the walls before the ceiling. The problem with this reversed drywall installation sequence is that it can make your work difficult and won’t give you the best results.

For example, you may have unsupported ceiling panel edges over a long stretch. The unsupported ceiling drywall ends may sag or crack because of gravity over time. As a result, your room may require expensive repairs sooner than you want.

Reasons to Drywall the Ceiling Before the Walls

Professionals place drywall on the ceiling before the walls because this installation order has many benefits. Let’s examine the advantages of putting drywall on ceilings first before moving to the walls:

Wall Drywall Supports the Ceiling’s Drywall

Installing your ceiling drywall first pushes the wall’s panels against those of the ceiling, providing extra support at the sides. 

With the ceiling panel endings resting on the wall panels, you can prevent the ceiling sheets from sagging and cracking, which may occur when the edges are loose.

Ceiling panels are held in place with screws. However, you may need to use extra screws or studs if your ceiling is heavily insulated.

The best way to increase the support is to put some weight on the wall panels at the edges.

You Get Nice, Tight Corners

You may have floating ceiling panel edges if you install drywall on the ceiling after the walls. In addition to the risk of cracks occurring at the floating ends, you may also end up with poorly done corners.

You can avoid this problem and make tight, neat corners by installing wall panels after the ceiling. Since the wall pieces press against the ceiling sheets, you get strong, tight, and good-looking corners.

You Can Improve the Room’s Fire Safety

Installing drywall on the ceiling before the walls can lead to fire safety benefits. If you install the walls first, there may be vertical gaps where the wall and ceiling pieces meet.

Fire typically travels upward. If you have vertical gaps in the corners, it will get to the beams faster.

You can improve a room’s fire safety by installing drywall on the ceiling before the walls. That avoids vertical gaps at the corners and can help prevent fire from spreading rapidly. This can be a smart fire safety measure if you don’t install the fire-resistant drywall variety.

Installing Ceiling Drywall Is Easier

Installing your ceiling drywall first makes the process much simpler. Many professionals will tell you that working on ceilings is usually one of the most challenging parts of a construction project.

After installing the ceiling’s drywall, the difficult part is usually over, and you can look forward to the more enjoyable task of installing the wall.

Why You Should Hang Drywall Horizontally on Walls

The best method is to install drywall on the walls once you finish covering the ceiling. To begin, hang pieces of wall drywall from the top because this will provide support to the ceiling’s edges, and help you to create a neat and tidy finish. 

Drywall can be arranged vertically or horizontally on walls. In commercial buildings, fire codes typically require the panels to be installed vertically. In residential buildings, however, drywall sheets are better installed horizontally.

Here’s a few benefits of installing drywall horizontally on walls:

• Improves wall alignment: Arranging drywall sheets horizontally on the walls makes it easy to hide uneven studs, leading to better wall alignment.
• Increases wall strength: The horizontal orientation allows for more contact between the drywall sheets and studs. This can result in stronger walls and more durable structures.
• Minimizes the lineal footage of seams: You can reduce the lineal footage of joints on the wall by up to 25% with drywall sheets in a horizontal orientation compared to a vertical arrangement.
• Reduces panel cutting: Drywall panels are typically longer than standard residential wall heights. As a result, the panels require a lot of cutting to fit if hung vertically. Horizontal fitting reduces the need to cut panels.
• Prevents wall sagging: Vertically arranged drywall sheets are at a higher risk of sagging due to gravity than horizontally fitted sheets.
• Easy to install and finish: Arranging the panels horizontally puts the joints at a convenient height for access. That makes finishing easy, which can result in a more professional-looking installation.

Do You Leave a Gap Between the Drywall and the Floor?

You should leave a gap of at least half an inch (12.7 mm) between the drywall and the floor. The gap allows drywall to expand without cracking. Moreover, the gap shields drywall from moisture if the floor is wet.

As a result, leaving a gap between drywall and the floor enhances your structure’s strength and durability.

If installing drywall in a basement, you should leave a larger gap between the panels and the floor. Aim for a one-inch (2.5 cm) gap for the basement installation. You may also want to apply a waterproof filler in that gap.

Baseboards will hide the gaps you leave between the wall and the floor.

What Drywall Size Is Suitable for Your Project?

Drywall is available in various types and sizes. There are panels enhanced for fire resistance that are ideal for covering kitchens or furnace rooms. Also, panels hardened against humidity may be ideal for bathrooms and other typically wet spaces.

Drywall panels are typically 4 feet (1.2 meters) wide. Panel lengths can range from 8 feet to 16 feet (2.4 to 4.9 meters). The most common drywall size option is the 4-foot by 8-foot (1.2 meters by 2.4 meters).

Most drywall sheets are half an inch (12.7 mm) thick. Panels of this thickness are easy to work with since they are light to carry and hang. If you’re wondering how thick drywall should be, you can find thinner and thicker options suitable for various applications. 

The thinner panels are suitable for ceilings and curved walls. The thicker variety is suitable for covering walls susceptible to puncturing or dents, such as children’s rooms.

In Conclusion

You should install drywall on the ceiling first before the walls. This drywall installation sequence provides additional support for the ceiling panels, produces neat corners, and improves fire safety.

Overall, the best bathtubs for tall people are ones over 70 inches (5.8 ft) in length. This size allows ample space for tall individuals to comfortably stretch out and relax. Taller bathtubs often come with additional features, such as deeper water levels and wider dimensions to accommodate the extra height.

In this article, we’ll discuss the most suitable bathtubs for tall people and why they’re worth considering. From the added length and features to the high-quality materials, these bathtubs provide a comfortable and relaxing bathing experience. So, let’s begin.

Do They Make Bathtubs for Tall People?

While the average bathtub is designed for the average person, there are many manufacturers out there that offer bathtubs that are specifically designed for larger individuals. These bathtubs typically have longer and wider dimensions, allowing tall people to comfortably soak and relax in them.

So if you’re a tall person in search of the right bathtub, you don’t need to worry – there are plenty of options out there for you to choose from.

What Is the Longest Size Bathtub?

The best longest bathtub on the market right now is the Americh Malibu, which measures an impressive 84 inches (7 ft) in length. However, this may be bigger than many tall people really need.

In most cases, a tub ranging anywhere from 72 to 79 inches (6 to 6.58 ft) in length should be more than sufficient for the average tall person.

It’s wise to keep in mind that the size of a bathtub isn’t the only factor to consider when choosing the right one. You’ll also want to consider the width, height, and depth of the tub to make sure it’s comfortable and fits in your bathroom space.

It’s always a smart idea to measure your space and compare it to the dimensions of the tub before making a purchase to ensure a proper fit. Additionally, you may want to consider the type of material the tub is made of, as well as any additional features that could enhance your bath time experience.

Some of the Best Bathtubs for Tall People

If you’re looking for the perfect bathtub for tall people, there are several suitable options on the market. Here are some of our top picks:

Kohler Archer 72-Inch Bathtub

This tub is made from durable acrylic and offers generous length to accommodate tall individuals. It also features an ergonomic design with lumbar support for added comfort.

Americh Malibu 84-Inch Bathtub

This is one of the longest tubs on the market right now. This model is made from high-quality acrylic and offers plenty of length to stretch out. It also has a deep soaking capacity and multiple color options available.

Signature Hardware Freestanding Tub

This tub is made from durable and corrosion-resistant material, making it appropriate for tall people. It also has an ergonomic design with armrests and lumbar support for added comfort.

Wyndham Melissa Tub

The ‘Melissa’ by Wyndham Collections is an excellent choice for those on a budget. This 71-inch (5.92 ft) long tub has a maximum water fill of 53 gallons (201 liters), so you can enjoy a relaxing bath without having to worry about excess water usage. It also features a convenient center drain and is made from high-quality acrylic for added durability.

Ove Decors Freestanding Acrylic Bathtub

This one is the perfect choice for tall people who want to make a statement in their bathroom. It’s sleek, durable, and easy to keep clean – and it’s spacious enough to fit even the tallest individuals. The 71.3-inch (5.94 ft) length and 33.9-inch (2.83 ft) height provide plenty of room to stretch out and relax, and the 45-gallon (170 liters) capacity ensures you can soak for as long as you want.

Plus, with its white glossy acrylic finish, it’s sure to impress even the most discerning of guests. Whether you’re a tall person looking for a comfortable place to unwind or you simply want to add a touch of luxury to your bathroom, this bathtub is a top pick.

Hydro Systems Eileen Bathtub

This top-of-the-line bathtub is made from high-quality acrylic, and its rectangular shape and clean lines give it a modern, elegant look. It comes in two sizes, either 74 or 86 inches (6.17 or 7.17 ft) in length – making either one ideally suited to taller people who’d appreciate some extra leg room.

How to Measure Your Bathroom and Pick the Right Tub Size

With the right approach and some careful measuring, you can find a bathtub that’s comfortable, functional, and a suitable fit for your space.

To measure your bathroom and pick the right tub size, start by using a tape measure to determine the dimensions of your space. Take note of any obstacles or features that may impact the size of the tub you can choose, such as doors, windows, or nearby fixtures.

This will give you the information you need to make a wise purchase decision.

Next, consider the size and shape of the bathtub you want. Tall individuals may benefit from a longer and wider tub that allows them to stretch out and relax comfortably.

Freestanding tubs, alcove tubs, corner tubs, and drop-in tubs all have different dimensions and features, so it’s critical to research and compare different models to find the right option for your space and needs.

Once you’ve determined the size and shape of the tub you want, use a measuring tape to specifically measure the area where the tub will be installed. Be sure to allow adequate space around the tub for access and movement, as well as any plumbing or drainage requirements.

Finally, consider the features and accessories you want in your bathtub, such as faucets, showerheads, and jets. These features can add convenience, comfort, and personalized touch to your bathing experience, but they can also impact the size and placement of your tub.

Factors to Consider When Shopping for a Bathtub as a Tall Person

When shopping for a new bathtub, tall people should consider a few key factors. Here are a few things you’ll need to keep in mind:

Length

First, you’ll want to make sure the bathtub is long enough to accommodate your height. This means looking for bathtubs that are at least six feet long or even longer if you’re particularly tall.

Width and Depth

Next, you’ll want to consider the width and depth of the bathtub. This is important because you want to make sure there’s enough room for you to comfortably soak in the bathtub. So, look for bathtubs that are at least 30 inches (2.5 ft) wide and 14 inches (1.17 ft) deep to ensure you have plenty of room.

Rim Height

Another factor to keep in mind is the height of the bathtub’s rim or edge. If the rim is too low, it can be uncomfortable for tall people to sit in the bathtub, as their knees may be cramped or bent at an awkward angle. On the other hand, if the rim is too high, it can be difficult for tall people to get in and out of the bathtub. Look for a bathtub with a rim that’s at a comfortable height for you.

Weight Support

You’ll also want to consider the weight support of the bathtub. This is important because you want to make sure the bathtub can safely support your weight. Look for bathtubs that are made of sturdy materials like acrylic or fiberglass, and check the manufacturer’s weight limit to ensure the bathtub can hold you.

Construction Material

Construction material can affect its durability and ease of cleaning. Popular materials for bathtubs include acrylic, fiberglass, and enamel-coated cast iron. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages and lends a different feel to the ambiance of the bathroom.

Type of Tub

Finally, one of the biggest decisions you’ll face when shopping is the actual design of the tub – and with so many options to choose from, it’s not easy to pick.

There are pros and cons to each type, so it’s wise to carefully evaluate your options to find the right fit for your space and needs.

Freestanding Tubs

Freestanding bathtubs are a popular choice for many homeowners, and they offer a unique and elegant look that can enhance the overall aesthetic of your bathroom. These tubs are not attached to any walls or fixtures, and they can be placed in any location within your bathroom.

This makes them a versatile option, and they can be paired with a variety of faucets, showerheads, and other accessories to create a personalized, luxurious bathing experience. However, freestanding tubs can be heavy and challenging to install, and they require a solid, level surface for proper installation.

Alcove Tubs

Alcove bathtubs are a common design, and they’re designed to be installed against a wall or in a recessed area of your bathroom. This makes them a space-saving option, and they can be paired with a showerhead or enclosure to create a seamless, cohesive look in your bathroom.

Alcove tubs are often available in a range of sizes and shapes, and they can be made from a variety of materials, including acrylic, fiberglass, and cast iron.

However, alcove tubs are not as versatile as freestanding tubs, and they may not provide as much space or flexibility in terms of placement and design.

Corner Tubs

Corner bathtubs are another space-saving option. The styles are designed to fit snugly into the corners of your bathroom. For smaller bathrooms or homeowners who want to maximize space, these tubs are a good choice because they are often smaller and more compact than freestanding or alcove tubs.

With a corner bathtub, you can customize your bathing area with a range of faucets, showerheads, and other accessories. The downside of corner tubs, however, is that they are not as versatile as other designs, and they may not be as comfortable or spacious for tall people.

Drop-in Tubs

There are also drop-in bathtubs, which are installed in recessed areas of your bathroom, often surrounded by a deck or platform. The result is a seamless, integrated look in your bathroom, as well as additional storage and counter space.

There are many sizes and shapes of drop-in tubs, and they are made from a variety of materials, such as acrylic, fiberglass, and cast iron. The downside to drop-in tubs is that they require careful installation and planning, and they may not be as flexible or versatile as other tubs.

Bathtub designs should be influenced by your personal preferences, bathroom size, and budget. The best bathtub for your needs and space will be found by carefully evaluating your options and weighing the pros and cons of each design.

With the right approach and attention to detail, you can design a luxurious, relaxing bathing experience that you’ll love, whether it’s freestanding, alcove, corner, or drop-in.

Walk-in Tubs

When it comes to walk-in tubs, tall people may be wondering if they’re a good option. The short answer is that walk-in tubs can be a great option for tall individuals, but there are also some potential drawbacks.

One of the biggest pros of walk-in tubs for tall people is that they often have higher walls and deeper water levels than traditional tubs. This means tall people can comfortably soak in the tub without worrying about their legs hanging over the edge. Additionally, the door on a walk-in tub can provide extra support for tall individuals when entering and exiting the tub.

Another advantage of walk-in tubs for tall people is that they typically come with a variety of features that can enhance the bathing experience. For example, many walk-in tubs have built-in jets that provide a soothing massage, as well as heated surfaces and air jets that can help to warm and relax the body.

The downside of walk-in tubs for tall people is that most walk-in tubs aren’t designed to accommodate the extra length. Furthermore, walk-in tubs are quite expensive, and their installation can be time-consuming and complex.

Tips for Installing a Larger Bathtub Model

• Measure twice, and cut once. Ensure that you have the right size tub and that it will fit in your bathroom before you begin. Be sure to measure your space and compare it to the tub’s dimensions. And don’t forget to account for any fixtures, pipes, or other obstacles that could get in the way.
• Consider hiring a professional. Installing a new bathtub can be a big project, and it’s critical to do it right. If you’re not confident in your DIY skills, consider hiring a professional to do the job for you. They’ll have the tools, experience, and knowledge to get the job done quickly and safely.
• Don’t forget the details. Installing a new bathtub is just the beginning. You’ll also need to consider things like faucets, drains, and other accessories to complete the look. Take the time to choose the right fixtures and finishes to match your style and make your new bathtub shine.

Final Thoughts

Finding the perfect bathtub for tall people can be a daunting task, but it doesn’t have to be. With so many options available on the market, taller folks can find a bathtub that’s both comfortable and spacious.

From added length and features to high-quality materials, these bathtubs offer a relaxing and enjoyable bathing experience.

So if you’re a tall person in search of the perfect bathtub, don’t worry – there are plenty of options out there for you. Just take the time to compare different models and consider your personal preferences to find the best bathtub for you. Happy soaking!

You may also like: What Size Bathtub Fits Two People: A Complete Guide

The best choice is a freestanding bathtub. These tubs are typically wider and deeper than the standard alcove models built into many homes, making them the top option for comfortably fitting two people.

In the rest of this article, we’ll take a closer look at what freestanding tubs are, their benefits, and whether it’s realistically possible to share a standard bathtub with your partner.

Consider a Freestanding Bathtub

Freestanding tubs are larger than typical bathtubs and – as the name implies – are freestanding in your bathroom. In other words, they aren’t attached to the wall or stuck in the corner like most tubs and showers.

People often opt for freestanding tubs if they need more space – either wider or deeper – than a typical tub allows. They’re also a good choice if you often share your tub with someone.

Buying and installing a freestanding tub will allow you to fit two sitting people comfortably without having to worry about being confined in a smaller space. The extra space makes it so you can enjoy your relaxation time.

In the next part of this article, I will discuss the costs of freestanding tubs and which specific tubs I recommend for your different needs. Let’s start with the average price of freestanding tubs.

Average Costs of a Freestanding Tub

When you see a freestanding tub, the first thought that may pop into your mind may be, “That looks so expensive.” It may give you second thoughts about purchasing one.

Luckily, according to Modernize.com, Freestanding tubs have a wide range of prices. As of 2025, they can start as low as $700. However, some are much more expensive – thousands of dollars more. Fortunately, most quoted prices include installation fees.

Additionally, the price of a freestanding tub depends on the model you buy and the material. Here are some of the different brands of tubs and why I recommend each one.

Empava 59″ Freestanding Whirlpool Bathtub

I recommend this double-ended freestanding tub from Amazon.com because it offers two headrests for couples on each side, which is what you would want for a two-person tub. It also provides eight adjustable jets, pre-drilled and pre-installed drains, faucets, and accessories for your convenience.

60″ Cast Iron Double Ended Pedestal Tub

This tub is perfect for those who don’t want jets or anything fancy in their tub. There are already pre-drilled faucet holes, making installation easier on you. This tub can hold 48 gallons (181.7 liters) of water, letting you have a nice full-body soak, and it can hold up to 445 pounds.

The Tub Connection Harrison, 68-inch Acrylic Freestanding Bathtub

This clawfoot tub is excellent for those who want an elegant look in their bathroom and plenty of space for their partner to join them. This tub can hold up to 46 gallons of water. It also has its ends providing back and head support with its raised stops for supreme comfort.

Benefits of Owning a Freestanding Bathtub

When you buy any freestanding tub, here are some benefits that should justify your spending some money on your bathroom:

• Increases house value
• Fits in with almost every bathroom’s theme
• Doesn’t require being installed on walls
• Can fit two adults at the same time

According to Badeloft, “On average, a freestanding tub allows homeowners to recoup at least 60% of their investment, making it a lovely addition to your home with little drawback.” So when you install a freestanding tub, you could be making some serious money back on your home because many homebuyers are looking for this specific feature.

However, few people can afford to buy a freestanding tub or don’t have the space for one, so could you get away with fitting two people in a standard bathtub? Let’s talk about that in this next section.

Can Two People Fit in a Standard Bathtub?

Two people can fit in a standard bathtub, but it usually isn’t safe or comfortable. Standard or “alcove” tubs are meant for only one adult at a time. It can, however, fit at least two small children safely.

No one wants to be uncomfortable while taking a bath. When you try to fit two people in a tub not meant for two adults, you will find it very painful and ruin your relaxation time. What ruins the mood more than being unable to move and cramping up?

Alcove tubs (otherwise known as standard bathtubs) are meant for smaller spaces to give your bathroom more room for you to use the rest of the area.

You can tell if your home has an alcove tub if the bathtub has a smaller and shallower basin. Furthermore, it usually is surrounded by three walls, and there is a shower head attachment on the wall above it.

If you fit two people in a standard tub, you should only do so with children. There would still be room for them to move around safely, and they won’t hurt themselves by being crammed against each other.

If you put two adults in the bath simultaneously, you can guarantee at least one of you will be against the faucet, and you or your partner will hurt themselves with one wrong move.

To Conclude

The only bathtub that can fit two people comfortably is a freestanding tub, leaving enough room for you and your partner to enjoy this intimate time together. While in a regular bathtub, you both would cramp, and there may not be enough space for two adults to fit comfortably.

While freestanding tubs are not necessarily cheap, purchasing them has some benefits. These benefits and different features can help you and your partner have a romantic time, which could definitely make them worthwhile.

Related: Best Bathtubs for Tall People: What to Know Before You Buy

In my opinion, the most decorative air conditioner cover for an exterior unit is the Westberg/Trimble Air Conditioner Cover. This cover is designed to look similar to a vibrant green bush, so it can beautify the looks of your air conditioner. It also blends in perfectly with the outdoors, adding a unique effect!

The decorative quality of an air conditioner cover is only one of many factors to consider when choosing which one to buy. In this article, I’ll explore those factors and recommend the best covers for each use case. Keep reading!

1. Most Decorative: WestbergTrimble Hedge/Leaf Design Air Conditioner Covers

If your primary goal for getting an air conditioner cover is to improve the aesthetics of your exterior unit, the WestbergTrimble cover is for you! It’s a synthetic cover designed in a beautiful, 3D shrub-like pattern.

Beyond adding overall aesthetic value to your air conditioner’s exterior unit, this cover is excellent for camouflage in a grassy area. For those who would like to make the protrusion of their exterior unit disappear altogether, this is also the perfect cover!

It’s designed to blend in with the environment, so the cover is flat enough to lay flush against the air conditioning unit and create a compelling blend. However, the camouflage effect can only be effective in a grassy plain that blends well with the outlook of the covers.

If your exterior unit isn’t in a grassy area, the WestbergTrimble cover will look like a square-shaped shrub instead of disappearing.

Pros

• Camouflage effect: The WestbergTrimble air conditioner cover has a camouflage effect that can smooth out your air conditioner’s exterior unit into the surrounding landscape. With 3D grasslike protrusions, the cover blends right into the environment! Not many decorative air conditioner covers have this amazing feature, so it’s pretty special!
• Portable handles: The air-conditioner cover offers a firm grip with one handle on each side. The handles make it very easy to install the cover and even easier to remove it whenever you need to.
• Pocket-friendly price: The WestbergTrimble cover offers great value at a low price. The cover is super affordable and over ten times cheaper than many alternatives!

Cons

• Synthetic material: Ironically, this air conditioner cover mimics natural plants but is made entirely of synthetic fabric. This means that the cover isn’t biodegradable, so you’ll need to swap it out after some time to avoid polluting the surrounding landscape.
• Visible weather wear: With time, the bright green design of this cover will start to wear off. The duration it lasts for depends on your environment and the harshness of the elements, but the effect is inevitable. At this point, you can choose to continue using it as a functional cover or swap it out for a new, better-colored one.
• Weak grip: The WestbergTrimble air conditioner cover only comes in a 32x32x36 inch (81.28×91.44×81.28 cm) size. It has a drawstring you can use to adjust its grip until it fits your exterior unit, but the strong’s grip is quite weak. You may need an extra anchor to hold the cover to your unit.

2. Best Price: BRIVIC Outdoor Unit AC Covers

The BRIVIC outdoor air conditioner cover is an earth-toned protector for exterior units. The cover is waterproof, so it offers protection from rain, dew, snow, and other wet elements that can damage the internal parts of the exterior unit.

With its plain color and super-tough material, BRIVIC offers excellent functionality at a great price. It can blend in great with an earthy landscape instead of a grassy one.

In non-earthy surroundings, it covers the air conditioner efficiently without being a distraction. The soft brown tone can blend in just about anywhere, so you have no limits with the BRIVIC cover!

Pros

• Tough material: BRIVIC exterior unit covers are made of resistant fabric that can hold up for at least one year, even in harsh weather. Most parts of this material are entirely waterproof, so it keeps debris and moisture from affecting your appliance.
• Firm anchorage: Unlike the weaker drawstring design, the BRIVIC cover has a cord in its hem for tying down the cover. It also has a buckle for efficiently attaching the tied cord. With these two features, the cover is fairly unshakeable after installation!
• Large vents: This cover has large vents to limit air condensation and reduce moisture. As hot air from indoors escapes into the exterior unit, it causes the water vapor in the air to condense and wet the covers. With better circulation from a larger vent, condensation of water is reduced.
• Variety of shapes: BRIVIC covers offer you the advantage of up to 13 size options. Instead of battling to make a generic size fit your external unit, you can select the size closest to your unit to get a near-perfect match.

Cons

• Single color: While it has a variety of sizes, this cover only has one available color – the brown earth tone. If you’re not a fan of the color, you may have to consider other alternatives.
• Complex installation: The BRIVIC doesn’t have a handle, so taking it on or off is considerably more challenging. The cover also has a ready-made opening for pipes at ground level. If the pipes are above the pre-made opening, installing the cover can become even more tricky.

3. Most Durable Design: Enclo Premium Vinyl Privacy Screen

Sometimes, potentially flimsy fabric covers just don’t get the job done. This problem can be particularly tricky when your exterior unit is so large that you can’t find a regular cover size that fits. If that’s your situation, what you need is a privacy screen that doubles as a cover!

The Enclo privacy screen doesn’t just hide your unit in plain sight; it beautifies your house! Unlike camouflage covers, this privacy screen isn’t trying to blend in. It offers aesthetic value with its simple white vinyl, so you can leave the screen as it is or paint it to suit the rest of your house.

The Enclo Vinyl privacy screen isn’t made exclusively for air conditioners, so you can include other exterior appliances in it. If you don’t need it for your air conditioner anymore, you can easily move it or convert it for another use!

Pros

• Sturdy: Where fabric air conditioner covers lack solidity, the vinyl structure of this privacy screen offers a sturdy, balanced cover for your exterior unit. This solidity can be particularly useful against the wind, debris, and air-borne weather elements.
• Easy installation: To install the Enclo privacy screen, you won’t need to do any digging or concrete filling. This easy installation gives it an edge over more complex alternatives.
• Eco-friendly: Enclo produces its privacy screens using recycled eco-friendly polyvinyl chloride (PVC). To ensure that the screens maintain quality, the recycled PVC is reprocessed and reinforced with solid, environmentally safe additives. This small business also prioritizes a minimal carbon footprint with production machinery.

Cons

• No cover included: The Enclo privacy screen is designed for many purposes, so it doesn’t include a cover for upper protection. To protect your Enclo-covered exterior unit from rain and snow, you’ll have to buy an extra waterproof cover.
• Requires assembly: The screen comes in a kit of individual parts, so you’ll have to assemble the parts yourself.
• No individual parts for sale: The individual parts of the privacy screen setup kit are not available for sale. If there’s any damage to the parts of the kit, you may need to devise alternatives or buy a whole new set.

4. Best Water Resistance: BOLTLINK Outside Unit Air Conditioner Covers

Aside from its decorative qualities, the primary practical function of an air conditioner cover is to protect your exterior unit from damage from water, dirt, and debris. On the scale of this functionality, BOLTLINK Air Conditioner covers take the gold!

The BOLTLINK cover is made of 600D high-resistance Oxford fabric with premium resistance to any harsh material that could damage your air conditioner. It also has multiple fastening straps, a buckle strap, and a drawstring to firmly attach the cover to the exterior unit.

This cover also has net-like mesh vents on both sides. These vents help balance its water resistance with the ventilation your exterior unit needs.

Pros

• Invisible with dirt: The dark, earthy tone of the BOLTLINK Air Conditioner cover makes dirt much less visible. Since the dirt on it isn’t apparent, you can choose to wash the cover at whatever time is convenient for you!
• Washable: The fabric of the BOLTLINK cover is washable and machine-safe. With some water and laundry detergent, you can get all the dirt and grime out of your cover.
• Variety of sizes: The BOLTLINK air conditioner cover is available in nine sizes. The wide range allows you to choose a size that matches your unit close enough to give a great fit.
• Adjustable openings: The fasteners on this cover are made with Velcro, so you can adjust the positions to suit your taste.

Cons

• Complicated drawstring maneuvers: The drawstring for strapping the BOLTLINK air conditioner cover is at the bottom of the cover. Reaching and tightening a string in this position can be pretty inconvenient.
• Single color: This air conditioner cover does not offer a variety of colors. It prizes functionality over decorativeness, so the single color is quite plain.

Last Thought

An air conditioner cover is an excellent investment for protecting your exterior unit from potentially costly damage. While these covers are functional, you can also get a beautiful look out of the protection!

The best overall non-slip stair treads are the EdenProducts Carpet Stair Treads. They are weatherproof, easy to install, and provide a decent amount of slip resistance. Also, they are easy to maintain and can be used in both indoor and outdoor applications.

The only instances in which I’d recommend alternative stair treads are:

• You need treads you can install on different types of surfaces. Go with the Trazon Grip Tape
• You need treads for wood surfaces. Go with the Handi-Treads Safety Tread
• You need the best treads for your pets’ and kids’ safety. Go with the Delxo Treads
• You need treads that are easy to clean and install. Go with the MBIGM Stair Treads
• You need durable treads. Go with the LifeGrip Anti Slip Treads
• You need the best treads for outdoor applications. Go with the Rubber-Cal Regal Treads
• You need discrete, clear treads. Go with the FINEHOUS Stair Treads Tape
• You need treads for smooth surfaces. Go with the MATAHUM Treads
• You need the most comfortable treads. Go with the Elogio Treads
• You need the best treads for protecting your stairs. Go with the PURE ERA Treads

Factors to Consider When Buying Non-Slip Stair Treads

Stair treads are an essential addition to any staircase, whether inside or outside a building. Notably, they provide safety as well as aesthetic value.

These treads are made from different materials and feature various shapes and adhesives, but not every type is appropriate for all applications.

The following is a breakdown of the most important factors to consider when purchasing non-slip stair treads:

Weatherproof

One of the first things to consider is the weatherproofing of the treads. If you use them outdoors, they must be resistant to moisture and wetness, or they will quickly become damaged.

Some materials, such as vinyl and rubber, are better suited for outdoor use than others.

Material

The material of the treads is also essential. They can be made from various materials, including:

• Vinyl
• Rubber
• Wood 
• Metal
• Plastic

Each type has its benefits and drawbacks, which you should consider before making a purchase.

For example, vinyl and rubber are moisture-resistant and provide good traction, but rubber is more durable than vinyl. Wood is a natural material that is appealing to many people, but it does not have a lot of traction and can become slippery when wet.

Metal and plastic are less common materials for stair treads, but they offer good traction and are weatherproof.

Adhesion

Another important consideration is the adhesive used to attach the treads to the stairs.

Some adhesives work better than others in certain situations. For example, some adhesives work well on wood surfaces, while others work well on concrete or metal stairs.

As a result, it is crucial to select an adhesive that will work well with the surface of the stairs.

Slip Resistance

The most important factor of any non-slip stair tread is slip resistance.

The treads must provide a good amount of traction to prevent anyone from slipping and falling. Treads can be made from various materials, but the anti-skid material determines the traction.

Some materials, such as vinyl and rubber, have a built-in anti-skid surface which provides good traction.

Other materials, such as wood or metal, require an additional anti-skid coating to provide traction. It is crucial to select a tread with good slip resistance for the intended application.

Quality

The quality of the treads is also crucial. Cheaper treads are often flimsier and do not last as long as quality ones.

However, quality comes with a price tag, so you must be willing to pay for peace of mind about your investment.

Aesthetic Appeal

It would be best if you also considered the aesthetic value of the treads. In general, the types, shape, and color of the stair treads can affect how well they blend into the staircase.

Stair treads come in many different colors, which allow them to match almost any style or décor, but some materials, such as wood, are more natural-looking than others.

Size of the Stair Treads

The size of the treads is also essential to consider.

They may be long or short, depending on their intended application.

For example, a short tread is suitable for a small step, while a long one is better for a large step.

Comfort

The comfort of the stair treads is also essential. If they do not provide enough traction, they could cause people to slip and fall even though they are supposed to prevent that from happening.

Even if the ideal amount of traction is provided, it may be uncomfortable for people to walk on them. Therefore, it is vital to find the right balance of traction and comfort when selecting stair treads.

Key Takeaway: The best non-slip stair treads are those that are weatherproof, made from a durable material, have good adhesion, provide a lot of traction, and are comfortable to walk on.

Here’s a table that rates the best non-slip stair treads based on the factors to consider when buying them:

1. Best Overall: EdenProducts Non-Slip Carpet Stair Treads

The best overall non-slip stair treads are the EdenProducts Carpet Stair Treads. They are made from wood blends and fiber structure, giving them a natural look and feel.

They are also weatherproof and can be used indoors and outdoors. The adhesive is pressure-sensitive, making them easy to install and remove without any residue.

The treads have a good amount of slip resistance and are available in four colors:

• Beige 
• Red 
• Brown
• Grey

They are also easy to maintain because you can clean them with a vacuum cleaner.

Bottom Line: I recommend the EdenProducts Carpet Stair Treads for any indoor or outdoor application. They are durable, weatherproof, and easy to install.

Pros

• Made from durable wood blends and fiber structure
• Weatherproof
• Can be used outdoors
• Pressure-sensitive adhesive is easy to install
• No residue left after removal
• Offer a decent amount of slip resistance

Cons

• Some customers have complained that the adhesive tends to detach when you wash these stair treads with a washing machine.
• Some customers find this stair tread’s odor unpleasant.

2. Most Versatile: Trazon Grip Tape

The best non-slip tread for wood surfaces is the Trazon Grip Tape.

It is made from heavy-duty aluminum oxide, which is ideal for stairs because it does not become slippery when wet and provides good traction. The adhesive on this material is long-lasting.

Unlike other materials that you cannot use on certain types of surfaces, Trazon Grip Tape works well on almost any surface, including:

• Metal
• Wood
• Concrete
• Brick
• Marble
• Ceramic tile
• Laminate flooring
• Carpeted steps

This makes it versatile enough to use almost anywhere.

It features a waterproof, strong acrylic adhesive with high traction and excellent slip resistance.

It also has a protective top layer that protects the tread from dirt, oil, moisture, and other chemicals to provide a long-lasting life.

Many people choose non-slip stair treads because they have pets or small children at home who are likely to fall down the stairs when running around.

If this is a concern in your household, these are some of the best options available because it offers good traction and protection from falls.

Bottom Line: I recommend the Trazon Grip Tape for its versatility and durability. You can use it on almost any surface to provide slip resistance and traction.

Pros

• Made from high-quality aluminum oxide
• Waterproof rubber adhesive provides excellent grip
• Long-lasting life for the treads
• Protects against dirt, oil, moisture, and chemicals
• Versatile enough for various surfaces

Cons

• You’ll need to apply varnish to wood before installing this stair tread. Otherwise, it won’t stick well.
• This stair tread may not stick well on rough surfaces. Like wood, these surfaces will need some prepping for this product to grip them well.

3. Best for Wood Surfaces: Handi-Treads Safety Tread

The Handi-Treads Safety Tread is the best option for wood surfaces. It features a durable aluminum finish for slip resistance and is specifically designed to fit wooden steps, ramps, or concrete surfaces.

It is made from durable aluminum oxide, an excellent option for stairs because it provides excellent traction and does not become slippery when wet. It also comes with 12 pre-drilled holes to make installation easy and fast.

In addition, the adhesive on this stair tread is long-lasting and protective of the surface beneath it.

Bottom Line: I recommend the Handi-Treads Safety Tread for wood surfaces because they are slip-resistant and durable enough to provide good traction. They can be installed quickly without any trouble as well.

Pros

• Slip-resistant
• Protects against dirt, oil, and water
• Custom sizes and colors are available for the best fit possible
• Comes with pre-drilled holes for quick installation
• Durable enough to be used on stairs and ramps

Cons

• Some customers have complained that this stair tread is pretty thin and flimsy.
• Some customers find this product overpriced.
• It doesn’t work well in icy conditions.

Pro Tip: Suppose you need help installing your stair treads. In that case, here’s a video that may come in handy:

4. Best for Pets and Kids’ Safety: Delxo Non-Slip Carpet Stair Treads

These stair treads are the best option for homeowners with pets and kids who like to run around.

They can be installed easily on any hard surface, such as wood, concrete, marble, ceramic tile, and laminate flooring.

They feature a suede material that provides excellent slip resistance and stability to prevent accidents from happening during use.

The non-slip adhesive backing also ensures that they will not move when in use, while the TPR base provides maximum stability on different surfaces.

The Delxo Non-Slip Carpet Stair Treads come in multiple colors, so you can find one that matches your home decor or preferences. They are also durable and meet US 6P certification standards.

Bottom Line: I recommend the Delxo Carpet Stair Treads for their slip resistance and stability. They come in multiple colors, are easy to install, and meet safety standards.

Pros

• Non-slip adhesive backing prevents movement
• Suede material provides excellent slip resistance
• Multiple colors available
• TPR base ensures stability on various surfaces
• Durable and meet US 6P certification standards

Cons

• May not stick to unfinished wooden surfaces
• Some customers have reported that the adhesion on the right side of this tread tends to wear out quickly.
• You may need to wash this tread and air dry it to improve adhesion.

5. Easiest To Clean and Install: MBIGM Non-Slip Carpet Stair Treads

The MBIGM Non-Slip Carpet Stair Treads are the easiest to clean and install. They come with a self-adhesive back that makes installation a breeze. Just peel and stick them to your desired surface for instant safety.

These stair treads are made of durable polypropylene fiber material that resists fading and discoloration.

They are also water-resistant, so you can use them in any weather condition. The non-slip rubber backing provides excellent traction on all surfaces.

The MBIGM Non-Slip Carpet Stair Treads are also stain-resistant, making them easy to keep clean. Simply wipe them down with a damp cloth, and they will look like new again.

Bottom Line: I recommend the MBIGM Non-Slip Carpet Stair Treads because they are easy to install, water-resistant, and stain-resistant. They also have a non-slip rubber backing for excellent traction on all surfaces.

Pros

• The self-adhesive back makes installation a breeze
• Durable polypropylene fiber resists fading and discoloration
• Water-resistant
• Non-slip rubber backing provides excellent traction
• Stain-resistant

Cons

• Some customers find the back lining too prominent on dark stairs.
• The treads get easily dislodged.
• Some customers have complained that the treads are pretty thin.

6. Most Durable: LifeGrip Anti Slip Traction Treads

The LifeGrip Anti Slip Traction Treads are the most durable option on this list. They are made of PET material that can withstand even the most extreme weather conditions.

These stair treads also feature an 80 grit aluminum oxide surface that provides excellent traction in wet and dry environments. The adhesive backing ensures that they will not move or slip while in use.

This stair tread also features a photolu­min­escent stripe that illuminates in the dark for extra safety. This is perfect for those who need a little extra help seeing where they are going in the dark.

The LifeGrip Anti Slip Traction Treads come in multiple sizes and colors to match your home’s decor. They are also easy to clean and can be hosed down for quick and easy cleanup.

Bottom Line: I recommend the LifeGrip Anti Slip Traction Treads because they are durable, have excellent traction, and come in multiple sizes and colors. They are also easy to clean and hose down.

Pros

• Made of PET material that withstands extreme weather conditions
• 80 grit aluminum oxide surface provides excellent traction
• Adhesive backing prevents movement or slipping
• Photolu­min­escent stripe for extra safety in the dark
• Multiple sizes and colors are available
• Easy to clean
• Hose down for quick and easy cleanup

Cons

• Installation on wood requires you to seal the wooden surface first.
• Tends to heat up when used outdoors, especially in the summer.
• They can get dislodged if a windstorm occurs.

7. Best for Outdoor Applications: Rubber-Cal Regal Stair Treads

The Rubber-Cal Regal Stair Treads are the best for outdoor applications. They are made from reclaimed rubber that is durable and long-lasting.

The easy-to-clean surface makes them perfect for use in any environment.

The natural rubber provides excellent traction on all surfaces. The adhesive backing prevents them from slipping or moving while in use.

They are also UV resistant, ensuring that they will not fade or discolor in the sun.

The Rubber-Cal Regal Stair Treads come in various sizes to fit your needs. They are also easy to install; just place them on the surface, and the rubber will provide a natural grip.

Bottom Line: I recommend the Rubber-Cal Regal Stair Treads because they are made from reclaimed rubber for extra durability, have excellent traction on all surfaces, and come in various sizes. They are also easy to install.

Pros

• Reclaimed rubber is durable and long-lasting
• Natural rubber provides excellent traction on all surfaces
• Adhesive backing keeps them from slipping or moving
• UV resistant so colors will not fade or discolor in the sun
• Can be recycled after use
• Range of sizes available to fit your needs

Cons

• Tend to slip over time if dust accumulates on the stairs
• Less suitable for indoor applications
• Some customers may find the smell of rubber pretty strong, especially immediately after installation.

8. Most Discrete: FINEHOUS Stair Treads Tape

The FINEHOUS Stair Treads Tape are the most discrete option on this list. They are made of PEVA-based material that is transparent and non-skid.

This makes them perfect for those who want a subtle safety addition to their stairs.

The adhesive backing ensures that they will not move or slip while in use. They are also easy to clean and can be hosed down for quick and easy cleanup.

Bottom Line: I recommend the FINEHOUS Stair Treads Tap because they are discreet, have a non-slip adhesive backing, and are easy to clean and hose down.

Pros

• Made of transparent and non-skid PEVA-based material
• Adhesive backing prevents movement or slipping
• Easy to clean and hose down

Cons

• May not be suitable for all applications due to their transparency
• Tend to form air pockets on the surface, which may reduce their adhesiveness in the long term.
• You may need to clean the surface for these treads to stick well.

9. Best for Smooth Surfaces: MATAHUM Stair Treads

The MATAHUM Stair Treads are the best for smooth surfaces. They are made of polypropylene fiber that is soft and safe for use on all types of stairs.

In addition, their non-slip backing prevents them from slipping or moving while in use.

They are also easy to install and require no tapes or adhesives. The adhesive-free design allows the stairs to be returned to their original condition after use. You can even vacuum them for quick and easy cleanup.

Bottom Line: I recommend the MATAHUM Stair Treads because they are made from polypropylene fiber, have a non-slip backing, and do not leave behind any residue or damage during installation.

Pros

• Made of polypropylene fiber that is soft and safe for all types of stairs
• Non-slip backing keeps them from slipping or moving while in use
• No tapes or adhesives are needed during installation; adhesive-free design ensures stair surface will return to its original texture once use is discontinued
• Vacuumable for easy cleanup

Cons

• May require you first to clean your stairs with Windex for them to fit well.
• Some customers have complained that one side of their treads did not stay down.
• They tend to crease. This reduces their adhesive property.

10. Most Comfortable: Elogio Carpet Stair Treads

The Elogio Carpet Stair Treads are the most comfortable on this list. Notably, they are made with carpet for extra softness and comfort underfoot.

The stair treads also provide excellent traction, cushioning, and protection against noise.

The tape adhesive backing ensures quick installation without leaving any residue after use.

Also, they are pet-friendly and suitable for use in busy households with kids or pets that may be prone to slips or falls while walking up or downstairs.

Bottom Line: I recommend the Elogio Carpet Stair Treads because they are incredibly safe, have a carpeted surface for added comfort, can be vacuumed or dump-cleaned quickly, do not leave behind any residue after installation, and are pet-friendly.

Pros

• Made with carpet for extra comfort and cushioning
• Tape adhesive backing allows quick installation without the need for adhesives or tapes.
• The residue-free design ensures that the stair surface will return to its original condition after use.
• Pet-friendly and suitable for use in a busy household with kids or pets

Cons

• Some customers have complained that their treads’ edges were not cut straight.
• Tend to attract and hold dirt
• Some customers have complained that their treads got distorted after washing them.

11. Best for Protecting Your Stairs: PURE ERA Carpet Stair Treads

The PURE ERA Carpet Stair Treads are the best for protecting your stairs. This is because they are made with a smooth but non-slip surface that protects your stairway from damage by wear and tear.

Thanks to their material composition, they also have a warm, comfortable feel underfoot.

They are safe for pets and kids, reduce noise, and come with an adhesive backing to ensure quick installation. They are also suitable for use on stairs with carpeting.

Bottom Line: I recommend the PURE ERA Carpet Stair Treads because they are made from a soft material that is comfortable underfoot, have an adhesive backing to ensure quick installation without leaving any residue, and protect your stairway from wear and tear.

Pros

• Soft material provides warmth, comfort, and cushioning underfoot
• Adhesive backing ensures quick installation without the need for tapes or adhesives
• Blend well with wood.

Cons

• Only suitable for indoor use. You can’t use these stair treads in outdoor applications.
• They are not uniformly shaped.
• You may find it difficult to remove the thin plastic film at the back of these treads during installation.

Final Thoughts

In conclusion, the best overall non-slip stair treads on this list are the EdenProducts Non-Slip Carpet Stair Treads. These treads’ wood blends and fiber structure help them hold up to repeated use and high traffic without moving or coming apart.

They offer a decent amount of slip resistance and are suitable for indoor and outdoor applications. Also, they are easy to maintain and clean and do not leave behind any residue after installation.

Fortunately, there are numerous ways to stop doors from slamming and many devices that can get the job done.

Different Types of Door Slam Stoppers

But first, let’s talk about the general types of products and where they are placed.

Some of the items can stick to the inside of the door, where it meets the frame. Although that does provide the cushioning you want, it doesn’t completely eliminate the possibility of the door being slammed.

In order to effectively stop the door from slamming, you should get one of the products that will prevent it from even closing. While they’re on the edge of the door, they’ll keep some space between it and the frame. You can place them on top or on the side where the knob is.

There are also products that you can attach to the knob on each side of the door. They cover the latch bolt so that you can’t get locked out of your place. Although they’re often soft and thick enough to make a difference, they won’t stop the door before it hits the frame.

You can also put in a temporary slam guard on the door hinge, so on the opposite side of the door from the knob. I’ll demonstrate this a bit better later on.

Lastly, you could also install a mechanism above the door with a jointed arm that holds the door and softly closes it before it can slam shut. This device is actually very affordable, so I’ve also decided to show you how it works.

7 Proven Products to Put an End to Door Slamming

Now, let’s see what you can use to stop the doors from slamming:

1. HushBumps Ultra-Quiet Bumpers for Interior Doors

The first product on my list is very simple, but it’s also pretty effective. The HushBumps Ultra Quiet Bumpers may look like anti-slip stickers, but they’re far from it.

While anti-slip products are usually made of rubber, these 1.18 by 0.23-inch rectangles are actually filled with a polymer gel. The item I’ve linked to contains 30 of these rectangular pieces, so you’ll be able to attach them to several doors.

The pieces are only 0.09 inches thick, but they’ll provide just enough padding to absorb the shock of the door closing. What’s more, the really great thing about this product is that you won’t need to remove it when you want to close the door.

Features:

• Self-adhesive gel bumpers
• 3 x 10-piece packs
• Install where the door meets the frame
• Polymer Gel Technology
• See the price on Amazon

2. Wittle Finger Pinch Guard

Unlike the previous product, this one won’t allow the door to close while it’s on. The Wittle Finger Pinch Guard will actually create about an inch and a half of space between the door and the frame. If the name of the product wasn’t a huge tip-off — this is one of the items that primarily serves to protect fingers from getting caught.

Still, in my opinion, this is one of the most effective cheap solutions for preventing slamming doors. You get 4 pinch guards in a pack that you can place along the side of the door or on the top edge. When you want to close the door, you can hang the C-shaped foam bumper on the knob.

The product I’ve linked to is fairly standard — you can find similar white bumpers elsewhere. Additionally, there are even ones with fun designs, like the ones from JamHooDirect Stopper. Those come in 7-piece sets wherein each piece represents a different animal. Still, these things aren’t toys, so make sure to keep them out of reach (or prepare to have them mysteriously disappear if you have kids).

Features:
• C-shaped flexible bumpers
• 4-piece packs (varies across manufacturers)
• Place above the knob or on the top edge
• Soft EVA foam

3. Happy Hands Anti Slam Safety Finger Trap Stoppers

The Happy Hands Safety Finger Stoppers have a similar function to the previous product, in that they leave some space between the door and the door frame. However, unlike the foam bumpers, these hand-shaped door stoppers are made of hard plastic. The manufacturer promises that they’re better than the foam stops, and the users seem to agree.

This product has a flat back that adheres to the edge of the door and a little hand that rotates out to stop the door. When you’re not using it or when you want to close the door, you can also flip it up. In addition, you can buy this in one of 6 fun and vibrant colors, so you can use them in the nursery as well.

Features:
• Hand-shaped plastic door stopper
• 2-piece pack, available in 6 colors
• Peel and stick to the edge of the door
• Rotate to the upright position when you want to close the door

4. The Original Cushy Closer Door Cushion

The Cushy Closer Door Cushion is a small, stuffed fabric rectangle that has two elastic loops on the shorter sides. Basically, you’re meant to loop one of the elastics around the doorknob and stretch the 5.5-inch long rectangle around to loop the second elastic around the knob on the other side.

The fabric rectangle is 3.5 inches wide, which means that it’s going to press the door latch down. As you can imagine, this product is primarily made to stop doors from closing or locking. Then, when you actually want to lock the door, you can remove one of the elastic loops and leave the cushion hanging off the knob on one side. According to the manufacturer, aside from being able to silently enter the room where your child may be sleeping, the padding will also prevent rattling and slamming.

This manufacturer offers 13 fabric colors (including a particularly charming fox pattern). However, if you’d like some more options, you can check out the Latchy Catchy selection. And I’ll also tell you how you can make this yourself after the reviews.

Features:
• Door latch cushion
• 3.5 by 5.5-inch fabric rectangle
• 13 different patterns and colors
• Loop the two elastics around the knob on both sides of the door

5. Rhoost Finger Guard — Hinge Pinch Guard

Unlike the previous products, which you can attach to the edge of the door where the knob is, the Rhoost Finger Guard is meant to be hooked onto the door hinges. Depending on the direction your door is facing, this product will either stop it from closing or prevent it from opening. Either way, it will keep the side of the door with hinges open and protect your kids if they push their fingers into that gap.

This finger guard is made of white PVC. The way it looks is a bit hard to describe, so you’ll just have to see it in action. Essentially, it has a hook that goes over the hinge and an angled bit that holds the door open. But, again, you’ll need to use your better judgment when determining whether your door needs a product like this or not.

Features:
• Door hinge finger guard
• White or off-white PVC
• Simply slip it over the hinge
• Hang it on the doorknob when you’re not using it

6. Door Closer Automatic Hydraulic Door Closer

This Automatic Door Closer from the Fortstrong Hardware Company was particularly interesting to me, especially because I couldn’t believe that it was so cheap. I’ve been going through life believing that the slow-closing mechanisms most stores have are expensive! All the while, I could have had one of these things in my home.

The product comes with all of the pieces you’ll need to assemble it, and they’ve even made a helpful installation tutorial video you can find online. There are several ways to go about installing it, so I recommend checking it out.

This product is also adjustable in two ways. Using a regular flat-head screwdriver, you can turn the two valves on the side of the box to tinker with the closing and latching speeds. The first speed is how quickly your door will get to 15 degrees, while the other is the speed at which it will close entirely.

Features:
• Automatic hydraulic door closer
• Attaches to the wall above the door and the door
• Adjust the closing and latching speeds

7. Draft Stoppers

Draft stoppers are another item you could use to prevent your doors from slamming. As their name suggests, they’re primarily meant to prevent air from passing through the bottom gap of your doors. Naturally, where there’s air, there’s noise — which means that draft stoppers are right up my alley.

Draft stoppers can be single tubes you place on one side of the door or double ones that slide underneath the door. In my opinion, both of these would work just fine. However, if your main concern is preventing the door from slamming shut, the single tube version might be preferable. Personally, I prefer draft stoppers that are weighted with ground stone, like this one from Thermwell.

There are cuter versions of this product, such as this pink unicorn-shaped one or one of the many animal-shaped ones from Evelots. But if you end up getting a double draft stopper like this one, you should probably remove the foam inserts. You need some weight to prevent the door from slamming, so I recommend gluing down one end of the tube, filling it with rice or gravel, and then closing the other end as well. Or, you can even make your own draft stopper from scratch.

DIY Tricks to Silence a Slamming Door

There are also ways to make these slam preventers by yourself. Here are some ideas:

1. Make a DIY Draft Stopper

I’ve already explained how to make a draft stopper in a previous article. Still, I’ll give you the cliff notes version. You can choose any piece of fabric, as long as it’s approximately as long as the door is wide. Even an old pair of pants would work — and you’d be able to make two draft stoppers out of them.

You can sew or even glue the two pieces together front to front. Once you’ve done that, you can invert them, to keep the hems invisible. That should basically give you a long tube pillowcase.

At this point, you can fill it up with rice or gravel as it is. However, you can also glue it down the middle from the inside. The second option would result in the type of draft stopper that slides under the door and holds onto it from both sides.

2. Make a Fabric Slam Guard

As I have already mentioned, making a fabric slam guard similar to the Original Cushy Closer is easy. You’ll need two small fabric rectangles, a piece of elastic, and a bit of stuffing. Once again, you can either sew or glue three sides of your fabric rectangles front to front, and then invert them.

Just remember to put in the elastic loop on the shorter side of the rectangle before you close it. When you have the makings of a pillow, you can stuff it with cotton or even scraps of fabric. Then put the second loop of elastic on the short side and close it with thread or glue.

On the original product, you can see that they also sewed along the edges. If you want to make the pillow more secure, you can do that as well. Otherwise, this DIY is pretty much finished.

3. Make a Foam Door Slam Stopper

Making one of the foam slam prevention products I’ve shown you is the easiest project you can think of. You can make it out of your kids’ old foam puzzle pieces or even a small piece of acoustic foam. Even a dishwashing sponge might work if it is large enough.

You’ll just cut a 2 or 3-inch circle out of whatever material you end up choosing. Cut off a smaller circle about as wide as your door in the center of the material. Then, cut the donut in one place, widening the incision a bit, but not too much — we’re aiming for that tight “C” shape. After all, it’ll still have to be narrow enough to pinch the door.

In Conclusion

Hopefully, this article managed to shed some light on the types of products you can use to stop your doors from slamming. Although commercial products may be more attractive solutions, you can easily make personalized substitutes. The most important thing is to make sure that whatever you end up installing really works. And, as you’ve seen, any of the devices in this article would fit the bill.

Obviously, preventing your doors from slamming shut won’t be enough in some situations. You can also address the source of the draft, which are likely to be your windows. I’ve explained how to soundproof windows in many of my articles.

However, if your doors are slamming because you have particularly moody kids, soundproofing your windows will do nothing at all. Still, in that case, these protections will just make sure all of their fingers make it through their tantrums.

Preconceptions aside, you don’t need to worry about being made fun of, as this kind of clog is pretty common. What you should do instead is to try and fix it fast — left unchecked, a clog can damage the pipe. While not a pleasant task, you must be brave and attempt to fix it.

Where to Start?

If this is your first clog you might have no clue what to do next. Most importantly — don’t panic! Usually, poop clogs are close to the surface and, as a result, are easy to fix. There are some cases in which the clog is further down the drain, but that’s not so common. Follow all the advice below and your toilet will be poop free in no time! 

Firstly, you should prepare your bathroom for unclogging. Bring any towels, newspapers, and perhaps some old clothing — removing clogs can get messy. Also, equip yourself with gloves and, if you are squeamish, a mask. Moreover, if you have a ventilation system, now would be the perfect time to start it up so it can remove some of the smell.

Clog Removing Methods

There are many DIY clog removing techniques out there, depending on the type of clog. For your situation, you can consider poop a small to medium clog. Maybe you already know some of the upcoming tips, but there might still be something new waiting for you.

Toilet Brush

Every bathroom should have a toilet brush nearby and if yours doesn’t — go shopping! While you might be used to cleaning the toilet bowl with it, a toilet brush can also remove small clogs. It’s a simple but effective technique — press the poop using the brush and then flush — that’s it!

Tip: You can cover your brush with a bag for more pushing power, emulating a plunger. If you are not sure how to do that, check out this tutorial.

However, don’t push too hard or you might find yourself coming in close contact with toilet water. Just push lightly at first and then gradually go faster and deeper. If this doesn’t work, it means that you are dealing with an already problematic drain and you should try other solutions.

The Best Toilet Brush

You don’t have any toilet brush or just want to upgrade your old one? Look no further than mDesign’s Toilet Brush. This sturdy-bristled brush can unclog most blocks without the worry of damaging the pipe. The easy to deposit and stylish design make this brush a classy-looking bathroom accessory.

Plunger

A plunger is another common household object that you need to have around the bathroom. While most plungers can do this job, it’s better to have a wide enough tool to create a vacuum in the toilet opening. Also, avoid using cheap plungers as they might do more harm than good.

Tip: Before you start attacking the toilet you should first warm up the plunger by running it under some warm water. Doing this will increase the suction power of the tool.

Now that you are set, start by placing the plunger into the toilet opening and begin pushing slowly. Gradually increase the speed and continue pulling until you see the water draining. Finally, pull up harder so the clog dislodges. When you see waste rising up in the bowl, give it another flush.

By now, there should be no more poop and the water should be looking good. If you still have problems, flush some more but watch the water levels closely. In case the water drains slower than usual, repeat the procedure.

The Best Plunger

Looking for the best plunger so you can make your bathroom a clog-free zone? You should give the Neiko Heavy Duty plunger a try. Its fit-all construction makes sure that there is no toilet too wide or too tight. The heavy-duty rubber cup is durable and can take some serious damage. Neiko Heavy Duty is the best plunger you can use in case of a major poop clog.

Hanger

In the unlikely case that you don’t have a plunger, you can instead use a cloth hanger. You should however avoid using a full metal cloth hanger and should instead opt for one coated with plastic. Before you start, unwind the hanger using some pliers.

The way to use it is pretty simple — place one end of the wire in your toilet and move up and down, just as you would with a plunger. After you are done unclogging, flush the toilet a few times to drain the water.

Plumbing Snake

While it’s more of a professional solution, using a small plumbing snake can help you get rid of all poop clogs. A plumbing snake is a long flexible auger that plumbers use to dislodge blocks in the drain. You should check your garage or toolbox, as you might already have one without knowing.

Using such a tool is similar to the hanger method. You place it inside the toilet and start moving forward while spinning the snake. When you feel like the snake is not going further, start pulling it out. If you did it right, you should see the water levels going back to normal. Flush the toilet a few times and you are good to go.

Tip: Don’t use a snake that’s too big for your toilet as you might break the pipe system. Follow the tutorial provided by DrainBrain to get an idea of what kind of snake you should be using.

The Best Plumbing Snake

If you want to use all the tools professionals have, buy yourself a plumbing snake and say goodbye to future clogs. The best product out there is the DrainX Auger Pro — due to its affordable price and amazing design. Moreover, the included gloves are a great way to protect your hands. The instructions provided will help any newcomer, as DrainX Auger Pro is the best beginner snake on the market.

Hot Water

Moving into the improvisation territory, we have an effective but more time-consuming method. The goal of using hot water is to soften up the debris and eventually dissolve it. This method works best when combined with a plunger or toilet brush, as you can more easily push and pull the poop after softening.

As the name suggests, you need hot water. You can either warm some if you have the time, or you can use the showerhead. All you need to do is pour the water into the toilet, let it sit for 5 minutes, and then pour some more. Afterward, you can flush and see if it worked. While this is mostly a hands-free method, you still need to be careful so you don’t burn yourself.

Tip: You can add some soap, shampoo, or detergent into the mix as that will help with stubborn poop clogs.

Coca-Cola

Yes, you read that right, you can use Coca-Cola to unclog the toilet. It’s common knowledge that coke, like other carbonated drinks, is highly corrosive. You can use that fact to your advantage by pouring half a gallon of coke down the toilet. Let it sit overnight and then flush the toilet early in the morning.

Tip: Don’t add mentos to the mix as the reaction might clog the toilet more, creating a poop-filled foam.

Baking Soda and Vinegar

Another time-consuming but easy unclogging solution is to use baking soda and vinegar. Mixing them has a similar result to the Coca-Cola method. The goal is for the fizzy reaction to dislodge the poop so you can flush it away.

Before you start, heat up some water or use the shower to get some. Pour two cups of vinegar and one cup of baking soda into the toilet bowl. Use some hot water to mix them and then let it stand overnight.

You can further upgrade this method using a simple plastic wrap. Just pour some warm (not hot) water into the toilet and add baking soda. Then quickly cover the opening using some plastic wrap. Wait for an hour and then flush the toilet. If you don’t see any change, try flushing a bit more.

Chemicals

One of the most effective ways to remove a clog — of any kind —  is to use special compounds. Most commercial cleaners are strong enough to remove poop and most medium clogs. However, you should keep in mind that it takes a bit of time before they start working.

To use such a chemical is rather easy — just pour it into the toilet, wait for 10-15 minutes depending on the product and then flush. It’s that easy! You can even repeat this process a couple of times to remove harder clogs.

Tip: Be sure to wear protective gloves because some chemicals can burn your hands if handled incorrectly.

Although they are a simple solution, you must use chemicals scarcely as they are highly corrosive. Using them more often than needed can lead to damaged pipes. Be sure to use only chemical drain cleaners made for toilets and always read the instructions before using them.

The Best Unclogging Chemical

If everything else fails and you want to choose chemicals, you need to be careful about what you buy. The safest and easiest to use product is without a doubt Green Gobbler’s Drain Opening PAC’S. Fast and powerful, yet environmentally friendly, the Drain PAC’S are a modern wonder. Just open one and pour it in the toilet, it’s that simple to get rid of poop clogs.

Bringing the Big Guns: Plumbers

Although a poop clog is one of the easiest to clean, there might be more waste further down the drain. If every previous method fails, it’s time to call your local plumber. It takes more time and is much more expensive than any DIY technique but sometimes you don’t have a choice.

It may be an awkward situation to tell your plumber that poop is blocking the drain. Don’t let that bring you down, as it’s more than likely not his first feces rodeo. Furthermore, a professional might find more problems with your drain that you wouldn’t know about yet. It’s always better to be embarrassed for a few minutes than having to replace all your plumbing later on.

Tips For Avoiding Clogs

Sometimes a poop clog might actually be the result of an already almost clogged pipe. It’s good to keep your drains clean — use some of the following tips to avoid further clogs:

• Clean your toilet — never let any dirt deposit onto the bowl as it could clog the drain later on
• Avoid flushing hygiene products — they will end up clogging your toilet in no time
• Stop flushing tissues or paper towels — instead, try switching to a garbage bin
• Have regular drain inspections — call a plumber once in a while to take a look at your pipes and clean up any debris
• Don’t use bleach — it’s dangerous and most likely won’t dissolve the waste blocking the drain

The Bottom Line

Overall, when it comes to poop clogs, simple methods such as hot water and plungers should do the job just fine. However, if you feel overwhelmed and think that nothing works, it’s better to stop and call the professionals. You might end up doing more damage to your toilet if you keep trying with homemade solutions that don’t work.

In the end, it’s safe to say that poop clogs are a nasty business, but don’t beat yourself up over them. Remember — what is now an embarrassing moment will soon become a funny story to share. Remain calm, follow the tips, and your toilet will be able to breathe freely in no time!

A dry P-trap is the most common reason your washing machine drain might smell like sewage. The P-trap is the U-shaped pipe designed to prevent sewer gasses from entering your home. The water in this pipe acts as a plug between sewer gases and your washer.

This article explains why your washing machine drain might smell like sewage and provides some tips on fixing the issue. Read on to get rid of the sewage smell from your washing machine drain!

Why Your Washing Machine Drain Smells Like Sewage

Here’s the thing:

Your washing machine drain is connected to your home sewer system. As you probably know, the sewer system is full of all kinds of nasty things, including sewage. So, it’s not surprising that your washing machine drain might smell like sewage from time to time.

There are a few different reasons why this might happen:

The P-Trap Is Dry

The most common reason your washing machine drain smells like sewage is that the P-trap is dry.

The P-trap is a U-shaped pipe that’s part of all drain lines. It’s designed to trap water between the washer and the drain pipe, so the gasses don’t leak. If the P-trap is dry, it can allow sewer gases to escape and cause a nasty smell.

I know the question running through your mind: how come the P-trap is dry in the first place?

Well, there are a few different reasons:

The most common reason is that you haven’t used your washing machine in a while and the water in the P-trap has evaporated.

Another possibility is that your washing machine uses a tray to catch leakages. This design is usually used in laundry rooms on upper floors to prevent water damage to the structure. And because you’ll rarely have leaks with a washing machine, the P-trap in this drain line can dry up, allowing sewer gases into the home.

Bacteria Build-up in the Washing Machine Drain

Another reason your washing machine drain might smell like sewage is because of bacteria build-up.

Bacteria are present in all drains but can build up to unhealthy levels if the drain isn’t used frequently. Washing machine drains are particularly prone to this problem because they’re not used as often as other drains in the home, such as kitchen or bathroom sinks.

When bacteria build up in the drain, they can release a foul odor. This usually happens when the decomposed organic matter from the bacteria finds its way to your washing machine.

Using Too Much Detergent

Using too much detergent when you wash your clothes can cause a build-up of soap scum in your washing machine. And this soap scum can provide a food source for bacteria, which can lead to a foul odor.

I know this might not be the root cause of your particular problem. But it’s still a good idea to use the correct amount of detergent when you wash your clothes. Not only will this help prevent a smelly washing machine, but it will also save you money in the long run.

Not Cleaning Your Drain Hose Regularly

If you don’t clean your washing machine’s drain hose regularly, it can cause a build-up of lint and other debris. And this debris can provide a food source for bacteria, leading to a foul odor.

So, how often should you clean your drain hose?

Well, that depends on how often you use your washing machine. If you use it frequently, you should clean the drain hose at least once a month. But if you only use it occasionally, you can probably get away with washing it every few months.

Plumbing Issues

In some cases, the problem might not be with your washing machine at all. Instead, it might be a plumbing issue.

For example, if your home has a septic tank, it’s possible that the tank is full and needs to be emptied. Also, there could be a blockage in the sewer line that’s causing sewage to back up into your washing machine drain.

If you suspect that the problem is with your home plumbing, it’s best to call a plumber and have them take a look.

Ways to Fix a Smelly Washing Machine Drain

Now that you know some of the reasons why your washing machine drain might smell like sewage, it’s time to talk about how to fix the problem.

Here are a few different things you can do:

1. Clean Your Washing Machine Drain Hose

If you haven’t done so already, start by cleaning your washing machine’s drain hose. This will remove any lint or debris that might provide a food source for bacteria.

To clean the drain hose, disconnect it from your washing machine and remove any clamps holding it in place. Once the hose is free, flush it out with hot water. You can also use a stiff brush to scrub away any stubborn build-up.

Once you’ve cleaned the hose, reattach it to your washing machine and turn on the water. Let the water run for a few minutes to flush out any remaining debris.

2. Clean Your Washing Machine Drain Pump Filter

If your washing machine has a drain pump filter, make sure to clean it regularly. A build-up of lint or debris in the filter can cause a foul odor.

To clean the filter, disconnect your washing machine from the power source and locate the filter. The location of the filter will vary depending on your washing machine model, so consult your owner’s manual if you’re unsure where it is.

Once you’ve located the filter, remove it and rinse it off with hot water. If there’s a lot of build-up, you can soak the filter in a vinegar solution for a few hours before rinsing it off.

Once the filter is clean, reattach it to your washing machine and turn on the power.

3. Pour Vinegar Down Your Drain

Vinegar is a natural disinfectant that can kill bacteria. So, if your washing machine drain smells like sewage, pour a cup of vinegar down the drain and let it sit for an hour or two.

After the time has elapsed, flush the drain with hot water. The vinegar smell should be gone, and the drains should be bacteria-free. I also found that using powder detergent with vinegar helps remove any lingering odors.

If vinegar doesn’t do the trick, you can try using a commercial drain cleaner. Just be sure to use one that’s safe for plumbing and carefully follow the instructions on the bottle.

4. Check Your Home Plumbing

If you’ve tried all of the above and your washing machine drain still smells like sewage, there’s a good chance the problem is with your home plumbing.

For example, if you have a septic tank, it might be full and need to be emptied. Also, there could be a blockage in the sewer line that’s causing sewage to back up into your washing machine drain.

If you suspect that the problem is with your home plumbing, it’s best to call a plumber and have them take a look.

5. Clean the Detergent Tray

If your washing machine has a detergent tray, make sure to clean it regularly. Over time, detergent and fabric softener can build up in the tray and cause a foul odor.

To clean the tray, remove it from your washing machine and rinse it off with hot water. If there’s a lot of build-up, you can soak the tray in a vinegar solution for a few hours before rinsing it off.

Once the tray is clean, reattach it to your washing machine.

6. Scrub the Drum

Many people forget to clean the washing machine drum, but it’s an important step in keeping your machine smelling fresh.

To clean the drum, fill your washing machine with hot water and add a cup of vinegar. Let the machine run for a few minutes, then turn it off and let the water sit for an hour.

After the time has elapsed, scrub the drum with a sponge or brush. If there’s a lot of build-up, you can soak the drum in a vinegar solution for a few hours before scrubbing it.

Once the drum is clean, drain the water and run the machine on an empty cycle to rinse any remaining debris.

7. Create a Ventilation System in the Laundry Room

If your washing machine is in a confined space, such as a laundry closet, create a ventilation system to prevent odors from building up.

For example, you can install an exhaust fan in the laundry closet or drill holes in the bottom of the door to allow air to circulate.

You can also try leaving the door to the laundry room open when the washing machine is in use.

By following these tips, you should be able to get rid of that foul sewage smell coming from your washing machine drain. But if the problem persists, it’s best to call a plumber and have them take a look.

Here is a YouTube video that shows how to clean a smelly washer:

How to Avoid Sewage Smell in Washing Machine Drain

Now that you know how to get rid of the sewage smell in your washing machine drain, let’s talk about how to prevent it from happening in the first place.

Use Hot Water When Possible

One of the main causes of a sewage smell is bacteria build-up. And one of the best ways to prevent bacteria build-up is to use hot water when possible. So, if your washing machine has a hot water setting, use it. The hotter the water, the less likely bacteria are to survive.

Don’t Overdo the Soap

Using too much soap can leave a residue in your washing machine that will eventually lead to bacteria build-up.

So, only use as much soap as you need. If you’re unsure how much to use, consult your washing machine manual or the manufacturer’s website. However, a general rule of thumb is to use about 1/2 cup of soap for a regular load.

Clean the Machine Regularly

To prevent a sewage smell, it’s important to keep a regular washing machine cleaning schedule. This includes both the exterior and interior of the machine. For the exterior, all you have to do is wipe it clean with a damp cloth. And for the interior, be sure to clean the detergent tray and scrub the drum every month.

Inspect the Drain Hose and P-trap Regularly

Another way of preventing a sewage smell is to inspect the drain hose and P-trap regularly. These are two of the most common places where odors can build up.

At least once a month, disconnect the drain hose from the back of your washing machine and check it for any blockages. If you find any, clear them out and then reattach the hose.

Also, take a look at the P-trap under your sink. This “U” shaped pipe is responsible for trapping any water that goes down the drain. If this becomes clogged, it can cause sewage smells.

Over to You

By following these tips, you can prevent a sewage smell from happening in the first place. But if the problem does arise, now you know how to fix it.

You want to start with trying to clean the machine itself as best as possible. If that does not work, you want to look at the hose and see if anything is clogging it and causing the smell. If you still cannot figure it out, it may be time to call a professional.

You can replace bed slats with ¾-inch thick plywood. Some recommend making plywood slats 3 inches wide, spacing them 3 inches apart, and some suggest using the whole plywood sheet to place on top of the existing bed slats. Adding a support beam helps plywood support more weight.

Replacing bed slats is an easy project to tackle, even for beginner DIYers. This article will discuss ways to replace bed slats with plywood and prevent sagging and weight issues from using plywood material.

About Plywood and Its Use for Beds

What Is Plywood

Plywood contains many sheets of wood glued together with the wood grains rotated to create a thicker sheet. Because this is a type of engineered wood, the weight load it can handle will be smaller than if you were to use the typical lumber, such as a 2×4 in or 2×3 in stud. It’s vital to ensure the plywood is adequately supported to handle the weight.

Don’t confuse plywood with other engineered wood, such as MDF, OSB, and particle board, because they are not the same and are a weaker option for supporting weight.

Plywood for Mattress Support

There are two ways you can use plywood for mattress support. You can make plywood slats or use whole plywood sheets as a platform. Both options will be explained later in the article.

Either way, you’ll need to add proper support so that the plywood can hold the weight of the mattress and whoever is on the bed without issues of sagging or weakening.

Ensuring Your Plywood Supports the Weight

Higher-quality plywood with a middle support beam will ensure better support without issues of sagging or breaking. The thickness of plywood is also essential because there is more support from a ¾-inch sheet than from a ¼-inch sheet. So, using plywood no less than ¾ inch thick is recommended.

If you’ve ever had to move your mattress, you know it’s heavy. So, you should consider the mattress weight the plywood will be holding. The following is the weight according to mattress size:

• Twin: 40 to 45 lbs (18 to 20 kg)
• Twin XL: 43 to 48 lbs (20 to 22 kg)
• Full: 50 to 60 lbs (23 to 27 kg)
• Queen: 120 to 160 lbs (54 to 73 kg)
• King: 130 to 180 lbs (59 to 82 kg).

A sheet of ¾-inch plywood can hold 50 lbs before beginning to bow in the middle. This tendency to bow is why adding support is imperative, or the plywood may bow to the floor. So, if you’re considering using plywood to support your mattress, adding one or two 2×4 in support beams will be necessary.

Option 1: Using Whole Plywood Sheets

Some have suggested using a whole plywood sheet as a platform for your mattress instead of bed slats. But for bed sizes bigger than a twin XL, you will need two sheets of plywood cut to fit the bed.

Below are the dimensions for bed sizes to refer to when cutting the plywood to fit:

• Twin: 38 in W, 75 in L
• Twin XL: 38 in W, 80 in L
• Full (or double): 54 in W, 75in L
• Queen: 60 in W, 80 in L
• King: 76 in W, 80 in L
• California King: 72 in W, 84 in L

There are two ways to make a platform for your mattress by using whole plywood sheets:

• You can place them directly on the existing slats.
• You may create a support with 2×4 inches connected to the head and foot of the bed and place the sheets on the support beams.

It’s easier to lay them directly on the existing slats to get the desired support you’re looking for without adding additional support.

Using whole sheets for a mattress platform can create more firmness in the feel of your mattress comfort level.

The biggest pro to using whole sheets instead of creating slats out of plywood is it’s less work, especially if you’re placing them directly on the existing slats.

How to Make a Plywood Platform

Whether you’re placing the plywood directly over slats or you prefer to add support beams, cutting the plywood to fit your bed size will be the same.

To do this project, you’ll need the following materials and to complete the steps listed:

• Circular saw
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Hammer and nails or hand drill and screws
• 2 Plywood sheets 4 ft x 8 ft, ¾ inch thick
• Sawhorses or something to support the plywood for cutting
• 2x4x10 in piece of lumber

The steps:

1. Measure the width of your bed frame
2. Cut the length of the two plywood sheets to fit your measured width
3. Place one sheet on the frame against the headboard
4. Measure the remaining gap for the second sheet to fit
5. Cut the second sheet to fit and place it on the frame. If you put the plywood sheets on the slats, skip the remaining steps
6. Cut the 2x4x10 in lumber to fit the length of the bed frame. This length is your beam that will support the plywood pieces and prevent bowing
7. Now, you’ll create two support legs with the scrap 2×4 in lumber by measuring from the bottom of the plywood to the floor and cutting it into two pieces using that measurement
8. Nail or screw one 2×4 in leg 12 inches from the headboard and place the other one 24 inches from the footboard on the 2×4 in beam you created
9. Slide the beam under the plywood, center it, and secure the plywood to the beam with screws or nails

Option 2: Using Plywood for Bed Slats

If you want to replace your old or broken bed slats with plywood slats, there will be more work involved than using plywood as a platform. To create proper support, you’ll need to make several slats for your bed frame. For example, you will need approximately 20 slats for a queen-size bed.

The slats should be about 3 inches and 3 inches apart. Spacing the boards 3 inches apart allows for sturdier support to prevent sagging and weakness from the boards being strained from the weight. When you place the slats too far apart, more strain will be put on the plywood, causing weakness and sagging because there will be fewer boards to help carry the weight.

How to Make Plywood Bed Slats

It isn’t as difficult as you think compared to many other DIY projects. You’ll need a few tools to get complete make the bed slats.

The tools required for this project are as follows:

• Circular saw
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• 2 Plywood sheets 4 ft x 8 ft, ¾ inch thick
• Sawhorses or something to support the plywood for cutting
• 2x4x10 in lumber

The steps:

1. Use the tape measure to measure the inside width of your frame where you will place the slats. This measurement will be the length of your slats.
2. Place your plywood sheet on the sawhorse to mark your measurements for the length.
3. Using the tape measure and pencil, mark the length measurement for the first slat starting at one end of the plywood sheet.
4. Now measure 3 inches from the edge going inward for the width of the slat. Make several of those 3-inch marks for the length of the slat to make it easier to cut straight. If you have a long leveler or board, use it to connect your measurement marks to create an easy line to follow when cutting.
5. After you have marked your first slat, use the circular saw to make your cuts, following the marks or lines you have created.
6. Before making your other slats, you should always test the first one by placing it in your bed frame. This test prevents wasting time and materials if the first slat doesn’t fit as needed. If it’s a perfect fit, continue making your other slats the same as the first until you have made the number of required slats for your bed support.
7. When you place the plywood slats on the frame, space them out about 3 inches apart to make the weight load more manageable for the plywood to support. Screwing the slats in place isn’t necessary but can be done to keep the slats in place if preferred.
8. If the bed is wider than 4 ft, it would be ideal for securing a 2×4 in beam, as mentioned in the instructions above on making a plywood platform.

Final Thoughts

Replacing bed slats with plywood is an option to consider. As long as center beams support the plywood or you’re laying the sheets over existing slats, it will hold the weight without bowing and creating saggy areas in your mattress. Using whole plywood sheets as a platform for your bed may make the mattress’s comfort level more firm.

In this article, I’ll take you through the four best door reinforcement kits. I’ll also discuss what you should consider when buying a door reinforcement kit to get the best. Let’s get started!

Best Overall: Door Armor Max

Door Armor Max reinforcement kit is the true definition of a top-of-the-line product. It is made of 16-gauge galvanized steel and comes with a three-way locking system that makes it virtually impossible to pry open or kick in. The kit also has a five-inch deadbolt strike, adding to its strength.

With galvanized 16-gauge steel, you can rest assured that the kit is protected from corrosion. It’s worth noting that a corroded kit is weak because rust replaces the strong steel or iron atoms with flaky powder. Moreover, the oxides formed during the corrosion process weaken the bonds in the metal kit. Therefore, these processes should not worry you if you use a Door Armor Max reinforcement kit.

Finally, you can use this kit for the jamb, hinges, and door frame. You don’t have to buy a separate kit if you realize that it can’t fit the sole purpose you were going for. Thus, this is an excellent way to get great value for your money.

Bottom Line: I highly recommend the Door Armor Max reinforcement kit if you want a strong, durable, and versatile option. It will create an unbreakable barrier on your door that will secure your properties and family.

Pros

• Versatile: You can use this reinforcement kit for the jamb, door frame, and hinges. This means you can fix it anywhere to match your expected door aesthetics.
• Durable: With galvanized steel, you can rest assured that the kit is protected from corrosion. It will serve you for as long as you want.
• User-friendly: The kit comes with comprehensive and straightforward instructions. You don’t need to be a professional to install it. You only need a power drill to finish the work in under 30 minutes.
• Strong protection: The kit has a 16-gauge thick steel material creating a door barrier that is hard to break. Any intruder will struggle to break this material, increasing the chances of catching up with them or calling the police.

Cons

• It’s a bit pricey. The kit is not the cheapest on the market, but the quality features justify its cost. You can rest assured that your property and family are safe.
• The door might feel heavy after installation. Some people don’t like how their doors feel after installing this reinforcement kit. However, this feeling should fade with time as you get used to the new door.
• Requires assembly: The kit comes with its parts separated. You’ll find the door shield, jamb shield, and hinges separate, and it’s your responsibility to assemble them. This can be challenging if you don’t know which part goes where.

Best Versatile Door Reinforcement Kit: Defender Security 10546 Door Lock

You may have different doors in your house, some made from wood and others from metal. In this case, you need a door reinforcement kit that can fit either.

In the worst-case scenario, if you purchased a kit that doesn’t look nice on the metal door, the option will be to dispose of it or give it away. This is not the case with the Defender Security 10546 door lock.

The kit has an adjustable jamb shield that can fit any metal or wooden door. The U-shaped bracket will protect the door from being pried open, while the L-shaped bracket covers the strike plate area. Moreover, the kit comes with three different installation screws, which is a big plus.

The Defender Security 10546 door lock is one of the few kits with an adjustable jamb shield. This means you can use it on both wooden and metal doors depending on your anticipated indoor aesthetics.

Bottom Line: The Defender Security 10546 door lock is an excellent choice if you need a versatile and user-friendly option. It’s also one of the few kits with an adjustable jamb shield to fit different doors. I highly recommend it to people with wooden and metal doors.

Pros

• Highly versatile: The door lock kit has an adjustable jamb shield that makes it possible to use on either metal or wooden doors. Therefore, you can use the kit on any door where you think it fits your expected aesthetics.
• Durable: The kit is made from stamped stainless steel, a material known for its durability and ability to prevent corrosion.
• User-friendly: The kit has an easy-to-use instruction manual that shortens the installation process. Provided you know where each part fits, you’re good to go.
• Strong: The stamped stainless steel technology used in this kit makes it stronger and able to withstand high pressure. Thus, an intruder will find it challenging to access your house.
• Aesthetically appealing: The kit has an elegant design that makes it look like a new door installation.

Cons

• It’s expensive. The kit is among the costliest models by Defender. However, buying an expensive but durable and strong door reinforcement kit is worth it as you’re assured of safety.
• Challenging to install: The kit requires you to assemble the mounting hardware before proceeding with the installation. Therefore, you’ll have a hard time if you don’t know precisely where each hardware should fit. In the worst-case scenario, you can interchange the hardware, making it impossible to install the reinforcement kit.

Easy-to-Install Door Reinforcement Kit: Jamb Security Reinforcement

Repairing and reinforcing an exterior door with a reinforcement kit has never been easy without an experienced professional. The worst part is that wrong assembling forces you to start the process again.

The Jamb Security Door Reinforcement kit is your go-to option if you want to save some dollars by not hiring a professional for installation. This kit requires no nails and cutting off any door parts.

The kit is also designed to be strong and durable. Its 18-gauge thick design can resist any attempts to break in. The kit is also adjustable, allowing it to fit almost all types and sizes of doors. It’s also L-shaped to give more strength and protection against prying.

Finally, the kit is 40-inch long to cover an extensive distance. Therefore, it’s an excellent option if you want to repair and reinforce a damaged door. With such a long length, the kit can cover the damaged part and ensure it stays strong.

Bottom line: I recommend the Jamb Security Reinforcement door kit if you want an easy-to-install option that doesn’t require cutting and using nails.

Pros

• User-friendly: It’s easy to install this kit as it doesn’t involve cutting and nailing. Extensive measurements are also unnecessary for this kit.
• It’s long. You don’t have to worry about the kit covering the entire section of your damaged door. This kit is 40 inches long and can cover and reinforce any damaged door section.
• It’s strong. All Armor Concepts products have been police-tested for strength and the ability to withstand attempted break-ins. Buying this product gives you the confidence that your property is safe.
• 100% customer satisfaction: The manufacturer gives a refund or replacement if you’re unsatisfied with the delivered product.

Cons

• Extensive length: The kit can be too long for some doors, especially if you have a small door.
• It’s challenging to adjust. The kit is not adjustable once installed. Therefore, you must get the correct measurements before installation to avoid any mistakes.
• It works better with other Armor Concepts products. The kit fits perfectly when used with products like Door Armor. Therefore, it might require more measurements to fit with products from other manufacturers.

Best Affordable Door Replacement Kit: Defender Security 10827

You don’t have to break your bank account for a door reinforcement kit. If you’re on a tight budget and can’t afford the most expensive kits, go for the Defender Security 10827.

This door reinforcement kit can withstand more than 800 pounds of force. It’s a 3-inch stop that you can install on the door frame to make it sturdier. The stop is also adjustable, so you can get a snug fit on any door size.

The Defender Security 10827 is made of heavy-duty aluminum, making it one of the market’s most durable door reinforcement kits. It’s also easy to install as it comes with 3-inch hardened screws and an installation template.

The screws are also resistant to tampering, making it impossible for burglars to remove them. The kit is also designed to be unobtrusive, so it doesn’t affect the door’s aesthetics.

Bottom line: I highly recommend the Defender Security 10827 door reinforcement kit if you’re on a tight budget and want to save some bucks. Being affordable doesn’t mean this kit is low-quality. It’s made of heavy-duty aluminum and can resist up to 800 pounds of force.

Pros

• It’s affordable. The Defender Security 10827 is one of the most affordable door reinforcement kits on the market. You don’t have to spend much money to get a quality product.
• It comes with an installation template. The kit includes an installation template to make the installation process easier.
• It’s strong. The reinforcement kit is made from heavy-duty aluminum, making it stronger and more durable.
• Highly-resistant installation screws: The kit comes with screws resistant to tampering. This makes it hard for invaders to remove them.

Cons

• It’s not adjustable. Once installed, the stop is not adjustable. Thus, you must be careful with your measurements before installing it.
• You must be careful before purchasing. The kit has dimensional information that needs consideration before purchasing. It requires you to have accurate measurements of your door and compare them to the line art before purchasing.

Factors to Consider When Shopping

You must consider the following factors when on the market for a door reinforcement kit to get an option that will secure your home:

• Size of the kit: The size of the reinforcement kit must match your door. You should look at the kit’s size in relation to your door’s height, width, and thickness. A reinforcement kit that doesn’t mesh with your door’s size will not be as effective.
• Installation: You should consider the installation process when looking for a door reinforcement kit. Some kits are easier to install than others. Make sure you choose a kit you feel confident you can install without any issues.
• Material: You must consider the material from which the kit is made. The most common materials are steel and aluminum. Steel is more durable but also more expensive because of its high density. Aluminum is less expensive but not as durable as steel.
• DIY process: You want a reinforcement kit that’s not difficult to operate and install. The focus is to install the kit yourself without having to hire a professional.
• Number of screws: The lock should have at least three screws for security purposes.
• Force bearing: Door reinforcement kits can withstand different amounts of force. You should buy one that can withstand at least 400 pounds of force.

In Conclusion

After comparing size, force bearing, screws, and ease of installation, I found the Door Armor Max to be the best reinforcement kit. It’s simple to install and comes with 21 screws, making it stronger to withstand more force.

Hydrogen peroxide will not damage grout and is a safe and effective cleaner to use. Both by itself and mixed with other ingredients, it’s efficient and easy to use. It eliminates bacteria and acts as a disinfectant, as well.

This article will further explain how you can use hydrogen peroxide to clean your grout.

Why Hydrogen Peroxide Works Well for Cleaning Grout

Most people focus on their tile mopping or scrubbing floors and scrubbing the countertops, but if the grout is dirty, no amount of scrubbing the floors or counters will make them look clean. So finding a fast, easy way to maintain grout can cut cleaning time down.

Hydrogen peroxide is a miracle cleaner on many things like clothing and fabric, but is it safe to use on grout? The answer is a resounding yes. Hydrogen peroxide is probably the best option for cleaning grout. It’s affordable, easy to use, non-toxic, and, best of all, can clean grout without damaging it.

Hydrogen peroxide might not be the quickest cleaning option, but it is safer than chemicals and a lot less expensive. It also doubles as a disinfectant. Check out this video to see how to clean grout with hydrogen peroxide and baking soda:

Cleaning grout is not as daunting as it may sound. Hydrogen peroxide is perhaps the safest and best choice for cleaning grout. Grout is made using cement or epoxy as a substance to fill in around the tile. Different cleaners are available depending on the grout used, but none are as good as hydrogen peroxide.

You may want to clean the grout to make your floor and tile countertops look better, or perhaps you want to eliminate mold, mildew, and bacteria. Either way, the best option for the job is hydrogen peroxide.

Food-Grade vs. Medical-Grade Hydrogen Peroxide

Most hydrogen peroxide you buy in the store will be medical-grade peroxide, which is 97% water and 3% peroxide. Food-grade peroxide is 35% peroxide to only 65% water. It is a lot stronger and, therefore, more likely to burn your skin or hurt your eyes, so it is a good idea to stick with medical-grade peroxide.

Even the food-grade solution won’t damage your grout, but it could hurt your hands, and it is not good to inhale. Wear proper protective gear if you go with food-grade hydrogen peroxide.

Expiration Date

Hydrogen peroxide is water with an extra hydrogen molecule added to it. The extra oxygen molecule gives peroxide its boost and makes it work so well. However, the extra molecule’s downside is that it eventually breaks down, so keep a close eye on the expiration date.

How do you know if your peroxide won’t work?

Beyond checking the expiration date, keep an eye on how it bubbles up. The bubbles tell you that the peroxide is working. So if it stops bubbling up, throw it out and buy some new peroxide. If you try it on your grout or another area and don’t see it cleaning, you can test it to see if it bubbles before dumping it out.

Grout is either sanded or unsanded materials or epoxy and can be sealed or unsealed. Knowing whether your grout is sealed or unsealed can be helpful if you want to clean it with another cleaner. Sealed grout is easier to clean. However, you can still clean unsealed grout with hydrogen peroxide without damaging it.

How Hydrogen Peroxide Works

The extra oxygen molecule in peroxide oxidizes, gets into porous surfaces, and works like a bleach, changing the surface’s color. Since most grout is light-colored, the peroxide works excellent for cleaning without damaging it.

Peroxide can hurt if you have any open cuts. Remember when it was used as a disinfectant to clean wounds, and it would sting? Well, with that in mind, if you are going to use peroxide to clean your floors or other surfaces, it is a good idea to wear gloves so that you don’t get the peroxide into any open cuts.

Hydrogen Peroxide Cleaning Solution for Grout

When cleaning grout or anything else in your home, stick with the peroxide sold in most pharmacy stores. The 3% is the most effective peroxide and the safest to use. Mixing it with baking soda will help clean the grout. Follow these instructions to clean your grout:

1. Mix 1/2 cup of baking soda and 1/4 cup of hydrogen peroxide.
2. Apply the paste to your grout.
3. Let it sit for 60 minutes.
4. Scrub the area with a hand scrub brush or toothbrush.
5. Wipe the area with a clean sponge.
6. Repeat as necessary.

Another peroxide solution that has worked well is mixing it with lemon juice and cream of tartar:

1. Mix approximately two teaspoons of cream of tartar and lemon juice until you have a runny paste.
2. Put the hydrogen peroxide into a dark-colored spray bottle.
3. Apply the paste to the grout.
4. Wait for about an hour.
5. Spray the grout with the hydrogen peroxide.
6. Wait a little bit longer.
7. Scrub it clean with a brush.
8. Wash the area with a clean wet cloth.

While the second solution takes a little longer, the results are even better. The combination of lemon juice and cream of tartar, along with the hydrogen peroxide, gives the grout a cleaner appearance that lasts longer than just peroxide.

In Conclusion

While there are a lot of products on the market for cleaning grout, hydrogen peroxide is the best. It is affordable, safe, non-toxic, and easy to use. Mixing peroxide with baking soda, lemon juice, cream of tartar, or dish soap can help with stubborn hard-to-clean areas.

Depending on your grout, you may have to repeat the process frequently. However, by using peroxide, you will get a nice clean surface and remove the mold, mildew, and bacteria, making it safer and healthier for you and your loved ones.

Well, you can hang drywall both vertically and horizontally, but horizontally is more preferred because it increases the strength and reduces the chance of cracks forming in the walls. While commercial buildings often hand drywall vertically, residential buildings use horizontal drywall.

The rest of this article will explore the reasons why we hang drywall in different ways for different building types and what benefits these have. Let’s get started.

Pros and Cons of Hanging Drywall Horizontally

Hanging drywall horizontally is a common practice in residential buildings. This is the case for several reasons.

Hanging drywall horizontally saves space, covers seams, and strengthens the overall structural integrity of walls 9 feet or less. However, there are reasons that drywall shouldn’t always run horizontally, either.

Read the list of pros and cons below to better understand why you may or may not want to attach drywall this way.

Pros

Hanging drywall horizontally is irrefutably the best way to hang drywall in your home. It has more shear strength and a more aesthetically pleasing appearance.

• Horizontal sheets create fewer seams than vertical ones. In fact, the lineal footage goes down by 25%. Fewer seams produce a more effortless finish and a more polished overall appearance.
• Drywall usually comes in long sheets, meaning you won’t need to cut them to size. Hanging drywall vertically requires you to cut longer sheets down to the correct dimensions, but hanging horizontally solves this issue and gets the job done faster.
• Horizontal drywall has a lesser chance of sagging over time. The weight and stress put on horizontal drywall sheets are far greater than on horizontal ones, meaning horizontal sheets will hold their shape for longer.
• Drywall hung horizontally is less likely to crack. Because of the stress applied to vertical drywall and the greater chance of it misaligning, it has a higher chance of breaking.
• Drywall hung horizontally covers uneven studs. It also has greater coverage of wires.

Though few, there are some disadvantages to hanging drywall horizontally.

Cons

Though the more preferred choice, it does have its issues:

• Horizontal installation requires a lot of materials. To keep it stable, horizontal drywall requires a fair amount of fastening mechanisms like screws.
• Installing a piece of drywall horizontally is a time-consuming process. However, installing drywall, in general, is quite time-consuming, no matter how you do it.

Pros and Cons of Hanging Drywall Vertically

Vertically installed drywall is much rarer than horizontally installed drywall. This is because it’s less practical and more expensive in general, but it does have specific uses.

Hanging drywall vertically is almost exclusively used for commercial and industrial buildings. The reason for this is that it’s much safer in the case of a fire or other emergency because the drywall will fall and not stack, causing a pile-up.

Below is an analysis of the pros and cons of installing drywall vertically.

Pros

Hanging drywall vertically is far less standard than hanging it horizontally, but there are a couple of pros that vertical drywall has over horizontal:

• Installation is easier and faster. It’s also much easier to inspect, which is handy for safety inspections and emergency checks.
• In an emergency situation, falling drywall beams will not pile up. This leads to improved safety for the building and the people inside.

Cons

Sadly, installing drywall vertically has more downsides than installing it horizontally:

• Vertical drywall offers no structural support. Though vertical drywall is used for commercial buildings, it’s designed to fall away easier while causing minimal debris and doesn’t actually strengthen the walls.
• Vertically hanging drywall is harder to finish. It can also cause more significant strain trying to lay it upwards instead of sideways.
• Drywall does more than stabilize walls; it also serves to cover wires and studs. Vertically hanging drywall doesn’t do this, though, and has a tendency to form bumps above studs and doesn’t hide wires very well.
• Vertical strips of drywall work out to be more hassle and more expensive. Drywall is naturally cut in long strips, which will typically need to be cut down to fit the standard dimensions of a residential building.
• Drywall installed vertically creates more seams. Therefore, it looks less appealing.

What Is Shear Strength?

We now know that installing drywall horizontally adds shear strength to the walls. It runs less risk of sagging, cracking, and even collapsing over time. But what exactly is shear strength?

Shear strength is the maximum stress a material can handle before it fails. Drywall, while not the most robust material there is, has a shear strength three times greater when hung horizontally than when hung vertically.

This is true for drywall installed on the walls, as well as the ceilings, of a building. This explains why vertical drywall is “safer”; it falls away easily in the event of an emergency because it has significantly less shear strength.

Because of this, drywall isn’t usually installed vertically unless it doesn’t need to provide any structural strength. For example, partitions within a homemade purely out of drywall don’t need to withstand a lot of stress and can be installed vertically or horizontally.

However, on essential structures like outer walls and ceilings, it’s a much better and safer idea to install drywall that can take the most shear force to reinforce the whole structure.

Horizontal and Vertical Installation

Whichever direction you choose to install drywall in, some certain practices and procedures will streamline the process and make for a more successful and visually appealing end product.

How to Install Drywall Horizontally

When installing drywall, you should start from the top. Additionally, if you’re hanging drywall from the ceiling, it’s best to complete the ceiling first so you can better plan the layout of the wall.

Laying sheets from the top down allows you to hide uneven studs present on the wall. It also ensures you’ll get the perfect fit in the top corners, which, in turn, creates a support structure for the drywall on the ceiling.

Ensuring this flush fit in corners, against the ceiling, and in all other joint areas of the drywall adds longevity to the panels. Drywall degrades over time and forms cracks if it isn’t placed to allow it to withstand pressure, so placement is critical.

Drywall is cheap for building materials, so opt for bigger sheets to cover as much surface area in one go than multiple smaller sheets. This saves you time and effort and creates a cleaner appearance.

How to Install Drywall Vertically

Vertical drywall installation comes with unique challenges. Horizontal installation allows the drywall more contact with wall studs, making them more secure, so vertical drywall needs to compensate for that.

Drywall sheets have some blunt edges and some tapered edges. It’s vital not to install a drywall sheet with the tapered edge on the corner of the wall, as this would make it exceptionally difficult to create a seamless join between sheets.

Like with all construction and renovation, precision is vital. It’s crucial to accurately measure and place drywall so the sheets aren’t too far apart but also aren’t too snug, as this may damage them in the long term.

Vertical drywall should, however, have slight gaps between the sheets to alleviate pressure and avoid having to struggle to make adjustments later.

Drywall Sizes and Orientation

Horizontal drywall installation works better for any structure below 9 feet or under, seeing as drywall typically comes in wider strips. Let’s consider the various standard sizes drywall sheets come in.

Drywall Dimensions

The most common size for drywall sheets is 4 by 8 feet. This can extend to 4 by 12 feet or even 16 feet for taller and broader walls.

The four-by-eight-foot standard size allows easy installation, whether it be vertical or horizontal. Of course, the vertical installation creates a greater risk of cutting the sheets down to size, depending on the wall’s height.

Whichever direction you lay drywall in, you ideally want it to run seamlessly from wall to wall or ceiling to floor, with as few seams visible as possible.

Drywall is a highly economical material that usually comes in fairly large sheets that consider the standard room size and dimensions.

Chances are you won’t need to make any significant adjustments to your drywall if you buy large sheets rather than smaller pieces.

Drywall Thickness

Drywall comes in various thicknesses, depending on the purposes it’ll be used for. When the drywall is placed over existing structures to strengthen them, the drywall is typically a quarter of an inch thick.

However, when drywall is used on its own — such as inside a home as a partition wall — it will be slightly thicker, so it doesn’t need additional support. In this case, the drywall will be around half an inch thick.

Lightweight drywall is fast becoming more popular than the thicker options, as it’s both lighter and stronger than the traditional half-inch drywall panels.

Remember that planning the installation layout needs to account for various drywall thicknesses. Thicker drywall will require more significant adjustments or leeway to fit without leaving too large a gap between sheets but also not being too tight.

Final Thoughts

It’s common practice to hang drywall horizontally for a number of reasons. Most of all, it creates a more robust and more visually pleasing final result.

Vertically installing drywall is usually reserved for commercial buildings, but there’s no reason why you can’t take that route in a residential structure if you really want to. Be warned, it does present its own challenges.